The Trip To Victoria Falls
Somewhere in Africa, where Zambia meets Zimbabwe, there lie the mighty falls. They are called by the local people, the Lozi, Mosi-oa-Tunya. The words mean, The Smoke That Thunders. When Dr. David Livingstone, that most famous Scottish explorer saw the falls during the 19th century, out of astonishment, he called them, the Victoria Falls.
Oooh, been there? If no, you better be there before you die!
It’s an amazing journey to travel to Zambia and Zimbabwe to see the mighty falls.
I’m sharing with you two options if you travel from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
Option One:
Get a flight from Dar. Air Tanzania flies to Lusaka and Harare, the capitals of Zambia and Zimbabwe respectively. From either Lusaka or Harare, you can catch the flight to either Livingstone in Zambia or Victoria Falls Town in Zimbabwe. The flight charges vary depending on which route you take and when you book prior to your travel date. Regular travelers are used to this.
I tell you one thing, you will miss a lot to enjoy.
Option Two:
Board a train from Dar es Salaam. The best train departs from TAZARA Dar es Salaam station on Fridays at 15:50. You need to check in at least 2 hours before the departure. You have to make reservations at least a month or two weeks before your expected travel date (this Friday train gets fully booked at most of times). You do not have to miss this trip. A first class ticket from Dar to New Kapiri Mposhi (NKM) in Zambia (located in the Copperbelt) costs $35.42 for a one way. It will be a 46 hour trip (yes, two days!), worthy taking. You will be able to view the Selous Game Reserve, the Great East African Rift Valley (Tanzania) and Muchinga escarpment in Zambia. Not to tell you about different small and big towns, and communities along the way. The train has a buffet car for meals, and lounge car for drinks. It’s a so wow trip!
Upon arrival at NKM, get a taxi to Kapiri Mposhi (the railway station is located at the New Kapiri Mposhi while the bus terminus is at Kapiri Mposhi). Don’t pay more than $1. Normally the price in Zambian Kwacha is equivalent to $ 0.55. At Kapiri Mposhi bus terminus, catch a bus to Lusaka. The buses are passing regularly from Kitwe and Ndola in Copperbelt to Lusaka. The bus fare is $11. Remember, you pay in Zambian Kwacha (ZMK). So, the actual amount in ZMK will depend on the exhange rate during your time of travel. Don’t worry, it’s obvious the cost will remain constant in US Dollars!
It’s a three hour trip to Lusaka. So, plan to sleep over at Lusaka. There are lots of hotels available on booking.com. Their prices range from $25 to $500, or even more. You select your suitable one. If you sleep over at Lusaka, please visit the Manda Hill Shopping Mall, the biggest mall at the heart of the city. If you happen to visit that one-storey mall, dine at The Legends Pub. They have the best T-bone berberque in town! Yay!
On the morning of the next day, catch the bus to Livingstone. Don’t worry about getting up very early. I guess you will be tired after the long trip on train. There are so many buses travelling at one-hour intervals between Lusaka and Livingstone. And, it is just 8 hours to reach Livingstone.
Catch either Mazhandu Family, Shalom or Power Tools bus to Livingstone. Get the big one, Marcopolo or Irizar model. You will enjoy your trip as if you’re in the flight! I tell yoh!
I guess you would book the accommodation in Livingstone in advance via booking.com or hotel.com. If you’re many, I propose you book for the backpackers. They cost between $10 and $15 per person per night. But if you don’t want to share, or traveling all alone, the hotel room will cost you from $30 to as much as $1,000 (imagine you want to sleep at Royal Livingstone Hotel, or Avani!)
If you are budget is very limited, please sleep over at Panama Lodge, it is just behind Bus Terminus at Livingstone. They will charge you $30 per night in their self-contained room. A neat one. But, remember you’re now in Livingstone, if you arrive there any time before 17.00 hrs, why shouldn’t sleep at Victoria Falls Waterfront Hotel which is within Mosi-oa-Tonya National Park? Ask me, why?
You will be able to watch the sunset at River Zambezi. Imagine, seating on the river bank in Zambia, seeing the other bank of the river in Zimbabwe, while watching the sun setting to Botswana and Namibia!
And, it even doesn’t cost much to lodge at Victoria Falls Waterfront. Accommodation charges start at $50. But, there is the option of using tents. They’ll charge you around $15 or $20.
If you sleep over at Panama or elsewhere downtown, please dine at Cafe Zambezi. Have you ever tasted crocodile ribs or caterpillars? You better do! And, that tasty beam fish from River Zambezi.
On the other day, if you slept over at Panama, the taxi will cost you $8 to reach Livingstone entrance to the mighty falls. Suppose you opted the Waterfront, it can be as much as $20. However, the hotel can arrange your transport, especially if you’re many, at cheaper price.
Now, you’re at Victoria Falls gate at Livingstone. If you’re a SADC national, Zambian government will charge you $20 to see the falls. For other nationals, the fee will go up to $50, even more depending on your passport.
There are guides to take you throughout the falls. No constant charges. You pay them depending on your negotiations. But, $20 is human! Although on Zambian side you’ll see only 25% of the falls, I tell you, you’ll have lots to enjoy. I love walking on the top of Knife Edge Bridge!
Now, you’re done. I guess you’re tired. Refresh yourself just after being out of the gate. There is one beautiful restaurant. Across the street outside the gate, it’s a souvenir place.
If your guide will be friendly enough, he will take you inside Royal Livingstone Hotel premises to see the wildlife. Please ask him to. It’s worthy going.
One thing I should not forget, make sure your camera is full charged, with many GBs (imagine during my one trip, I normally take 1,200+ photos — don’t count those I use my phone).
Then, go to Livingstone Border Post, leave Zambia.
Some guys will convince you to take the taxi. They will charge you between $3 and $5. Never take the taxi.
Just, walk. It’s worthy to.
You will pass on the top of the historic Victoria Falls Bridge. You’ll enjoy viewing the falls from the bridge.
At the mid of the bridge, Zambia welcomes Zimbabwe. On the left side, there is a bungee. If you’re courageous enough, please try.
In Zimbabwe, stamp your passport at the Victoria Falls Boarder Post. If you’re the SADC national, don’t worry about visa. All you need is your valid passport. For other nationals, it’s $50 (I forgot, even when you enter Zambia, the same rule applies).
Just few steps after the border post, you find the entrance to the mighty falls on Zimbabwe side. Where, you’re going to see the remaining 75% of the falls.
You’ll get the best experience.
One important thing to remember, in Victoria Falls Rainforest (remember now you’re in Zimbabwe) it’s raining 24 hours, 365 days (yes, throughout the year!).
So, if you’re there at any time between February and May, make sure you hire the raincoat. The fee is $5. But in between June and September, just get wet (you just need a story to tell your grandchildren!). Please, note that, between February and May, you can’t manage without the raincoat!
Now you’re done with the mighty falls in Zimbabwe. You must be very exhausted. Grab the taxi outside the gate. From the gate to Victoria Falls Town, will cost you $8. Do not walk. Otherwise you’re in the team.
Now, you’re at the very beautiful town. I hope you’d already booked your accommodation via the aforementioned sites. I suggest, if your budget is limited you take N1 hotel. They will charge you from $60 for the single room. They have a dormitory option, charging around $10 to 15$ per person per night. Worthy taking the dom if you’re team. There are other cheaper options for backpackers and single rooms. Reynold charge $30 per person per day!
No matter where you decide to lodge, make sure you visit Victoria Falls Hotel, Kingdom Hotel and Ilala Lodge Hotel . They are all located at the nearby. You’ll thank me later!
There are lot to enjoy at Victoria Falls Town. Wildlife across streets, wine, coffee, and many more! Have you ever enjoyed a glass of wine, or cappuccino on wagon? Yes, I mean inside the refurbished train wagon! I guess no. Please make sure you treat yourself at Free Monkey Pub.
Imagine, you have more time in this trip. Will Zambia and Zimbabwe be enough for you? A big no!
On the morning of the other day (after you’d arranged on the previous day), get the taxi to Kazungula Border Post (the only point in the world where 4 countries are meeting by water — the meeting point for Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia). The taxi should not charge you more than $50 for a to-and-fro trip. Upon arrival at Kazungula, pay him the half. He should wait for you until you’re done with Botswana. On the way back, you pay the remaining amount.
Entering Botswana is the same as Zimbabwe and Zambia. Visa free upon arrival for SADC national and $50 for other nationals.
After Botswana has welcomed you, grab the taxi, $3 to Kasane. Don’t pay more. Bargain.
Guess what? Treat yourself with delicious breakfast at The Hunters Pub. It’s the hunters pub, am I communicating? Located just near Top Spar Supermarket. Their prices are reasonable, $10 to get you full. You need to have pura (Botswana currency). Don’t worry, they accept your visa card.
Enjoy the view of the River Chobe while having your breakfast. Then, just walk behind the building to a small ferry. There, you’ll find a number of boats. Book one. If you want three hour cruise, they will charge you $50. But, if your budget is limited, please pay $6 to $10 for a half an hour. It is enough. You’ll enjoy cruising in River Chobe.
Namibia on right bank, lots of elephants ahead of you, on the island that has for so many years been disputable between Botswana and Namibia.
When you’re done, visit beautiful restaurants in nearby place and treat your self. One thing, wouldn’t you love to enjoy at Chobe Marine Lodge?
Then, catch taxi back to Kazungula border. Pay the same $3. Leave Botswana. Enter Zimbabwe. Catch your taxi that’s been waiting for you. Go back to Victoria Falls Town. If it is still noon, upon arrival at Victoria Falls Town, visit souvenir shops (don’t you have your loved ones to buy them gifts?).
Leave Zimbabwe on the same day if you’re not planning to sleep over. Enter Zambia. Sleep in Zambia. Catch the bus on the morning of the following day. Sleep at Lusaka. If you’re planning to travel back to Dar by train again, make sure you reserved, when you arrived. That best train departs at NKM on Tuesdays at 15.00 hrs. However, days will not be enough for you to catch the Express Train on Tuesday, otherwise you prolong your trip days. But, if your days are limited, catch the up ordinary train on Friday, departing around 15.30. The cost to Dar in USD varies indifferently.
Do you see now?
One thing to note, all ground travel costs, entrance fees and associated costs, you pay in cash. The accommodation, meals and souvenirs, you just swap your debit or credit card.
Now, I have given you all the details, why shouldn’t take this trip?
You’ll thank me later.
Fadhy Mtanga,
Mbeya, Tanzania.
Wednesday, July 10, 2019.
© All photos used in this post are the properties of author. No reuse without permission.
